After Vincenzo's, fine wining and dining at Back Creek

Friday, Aug. 20, 2010

Click here to enlarge this photo Staff photos by DARWIN WEIGEL Chefs at The Back Creek Bistro, Joe Damalouji, left, and John Marshall, sit before a spread of dishes: Mediterranean seafood pasta, filet mignon, house salad and lobster bisque soup ($7), which is quickly becoming one of the new restaurant's popular items. E-Mail This Article | Print This Story Click here to enlarge this photo Mediterranean seafood pasta. Click here to enlarge this photo Lobster bisque.

Although Vincenzo's is no more, the crab gnocchi of yesteryear — or at least a darn good version of it — very much exists.

The dish is one of a handful of the former Vincenzo's well-regarded Italian dishes which Richard Fitzwater has kept on his menu at The Back Creek Bistro, which opened in March in what used to be Calvert Marina's upscale Italian spot owned by Vincenzo D'Arista. Reached on the phone, Fitzwater said, "I didn't want to throw the baby out with the bathwater."

Offerings here range from $10 burgers (with fries) to $25 lobster (smothered in cream sauce). We find grilled swordfish topped with lemon butter and caper sauce ($19), New Zealand rack of lamb ($26) and chicken almandine $16), a boneless chicken breast sautéed in butter and served with amaretto sauce and almonds. Here's another Vincenzo's standby: bowtie Abruzzi ($16), which the menu describes as spicy, crumbled sausage sautéed with mushrooms, olives, marinara sauce and Romano cheese.

As it happens, Fitzwater, a retired defense contractor, knew Vincenzo's rather well. He was the bartender there for the last four of its five years. This also means that before rolling the dice on opening his first restaurant, he saw firsthand the recession-influenced decline in sales — nearly 50 percent, D'Arista told The Calvert Recorder — that prompted the owner to close the doors in December.

Call Fitzwater an optimist. He crunched the numbers. He saw signs of things improving for restaurants. Then he went for it, his responsibilities leapfrogging considerably — from bartender to Bartender Who Also Owns the Place. This is not to say that Back Creek Bistro, named after the creek that separates the restaurant from Solomons, equals Vincenzo's No. 2 — though there are similarities.

The interior design, for one, is roughly the same. But why change this comfortable, elegant space? Blinds let in just enough light through the big window facing the water. There is a similar, if not the same, arrangement of crisp tablecloth-covered tables. A small bar area provides the option of stopping in for drinks and appetizers, while a lounge near the entrance will mean those who have to wait will at least be cozy. This top-floor restaurant, meanwhile, remains a haven for top-tier dining.

Fitzwater did see a need to alter perceptions. Of Vincenzo's, he said, "I think we were thought of, and probably rightly so, as upper crust." With that in mind, the new owner has dropped prices some, both for food and drinks (the most expensive bottle of wine is $45), with hopes it might attract more locals to come on a fairly regular basis rather than just for special occasions. Fitzwater, by the way, is also a musician, so perhaps it's no surprise that Thursday evening jazz has crossed over. These days, you might also hear music on Fridays (often by Fitzwater) and Saturdays.

Back in the kitchen, one of Back Creek's chefs, John Marshall, began work at Vincenzo's during its final days. His resume also lists DiGiovanni's Dock of the Bay, an Italian seafood restaurant in Solomons. Also on board is Joe Damalouji, who previously worked at Prince Frederick's Saphron (which reopened Aug. 16 in what was formerly the Old Field Inn).

As for the crabmeat gnocchi — half-flour, half-potato Italian dumplings — the dish is a true delight. The cream sauce is rich enough but doesn't overwhelm the prized lumps, a perfectly-cooked source of true comfort. The added bonus is bites of lump crab that seem to magically find their way onto your fork.

On a quiet, Sunday evening, my wife and I ordered two appetizers: a gorgonzola salad ($7) and a plate of spicy shrimp ($8). The salad featured light field greens topped with sweet tomatoes, strawberries and mandarin oranges, not to mention candied walnuts and a generous amount of cheese. The light dressing was just right, and the collision of tart cheese and a citrusy kick turned out to be a welcome one.

Served with a dipping sauce, the shrimp dish had its bright spots but seemed less inspired than others we tried. The seasoning was apt, though not spicy, and the shrimp were meaty. With my money, I'm going for the fried calamari ($10) or Prince Edward Island mussels ($10).

Listen for the specials. A decadent surf and turf platter (priced in the mid $20 range) was served graciously; it also came with a baked potato and a flavorful bunch of steamed broccoli. The marbled steak was succulent, a prize. So was a broiled crab cake, for which a crisp outside layer gave way to large chunks of crab meat and laudable stuffing.

If you have space for a finale, split an artfully presented slice of mascarpone cake ($6). One of three desserts on the menu, it involves two moist pieces of sweet streusel-topped blueberry lemon cake, each divided by a thick spread of the Italian cream cheese. This one won't be forgotten anytime soon.

The Back Creek Bistro is at 14415 Dowell Road, Solomons. Hours: 5-9:30 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday. Entrée prices: $8-$26. Credit cards: V, MC, D, AE. Reservations: 410-326-9900. Go to www.backcreekbistro.com