Seek out Friendship for breakfast and a fabulous brew

AROUND TOWN

Friday, Dec. 4, 2009

Click here to enlarge this photo Staff photos by DARWIN WEIGEL Servers Laura Mahar, left, and Lindsey Chroniger show off the Fabulous Brew Café's kick start breakfast special and the BLT. Below, Chroniger, in the dining room, shows a tray of baked goods to Jill Chaney, left, and her mother, Deb Chaney. E-Mail This Article | Print This Story Click here to enlarge this photo

Until now, this beat had not taken me to Anne Arundel County. But I found this country coffeehouse on my way to North Beach — turning off Route 260 onto Sansbury Road and passing through rolling farmlands — and for months it struck me as a place worth a visit.

Take away all the cars parked in the stone lot that bends around it and the eye-catching sign with a steamy mug of coffee and the words, "Kick start your day!," and the café would not look much different than any other nearby residence. From the front porch, though, one (that would be me) begins to believe that, long ago, this was in fact a saloon and that patrons came here by horse rather than car.

Anyway, from the looks of it, Fabulous Brew Café seemed like a potentially good spot for a hearty breakfast and a solid cup of coffee. However, as I discovered weeks ago, the café in Friendship might also serve fabulous upscale dinner and alcoholic drinks.

Priced between $17 and $23, the 10 or so dinner options include salmon sautéed in white wine and orange juice then topped with a citrus-avocado salsa. Mexican food is served on Sundays. As well, on the regular menu, one finds a crab cake dinner, steaks and chicken carbonara (a personal favorite).

Let me now say I only visited Fabulous Brew for breakfast, though I'm glad I did.

I thought I might place my order at the counter. Instead, after checking in, I was led to a table in the dining area, where I shared the room with two groups of women. The charming interior, filled with antique chairs and tables and seasonal decor, is quite organically autumn, and it seems like the space could transition from casual breakfast to a pricier dinner with ease.

Service was smooth and thoughtful. Rather than place the incorrect order, for instance, my server double-checked it with me to make sure she had it right. A mug of coffee, meanwhile, came with a tiny pitcher of cream.

Breakfast options include bagels for a couple bucks, breakfast sandwiches (including burritos) for about five and a spread of egg dishes for between $7 and $12. Topping the price list is a "super fab" crab melt on an English muffin with ham, tomatoes and cheddar cheese. There's also the "kick start" special, an option allowing diners to load up on eggs, pancakes and bacon (or its alternatives), and a Greek omelet filled with spinach, feta cheese and herbs.

The Denver omelet, coated with sharp cheddar cheese and stuffed with sautéed onions, peppers and diced ham, was nothing less than greasy-good. A dish like this makes me wish I could get out for breakfast more often, though the seasoned potato cubes, surrounding a big omelet like this one, frankly, were a bit of a bore. (They are, however, far healthier than the crispy, seasoned home fries I found myself imagining.) Also on the side: a doughy biscuit said to be prepared on-site, just like all the pastries and desserts.

For a café, Fabulous Brew's lunch menu is anything but the usual mix of wraps and grilled panini sandwiches. Options, however, do include a grilled Reuben, not to mention a whiz steak and cheese. Perhaps toe the spicy line with teriyaki salmon on a sesame bun with a side of wasabi dressing. (Those who prefer the usual ham and turkey combination can customize their own sandwich.)

Let's talk about the brew. An adjective like fabulous does not come easily to me, but I will say that the Deale Ditchwater (the owners once ran a spot in Deale, now The Java Stop) is nothing like the usual ditchwater I buy at convenience stores most mornings. An espresso beverage accented with caramel and more, I appreciated it as much for the effect as for the taste.

Lately, I hear people describe Starbuck's pumpkin spice latte as their current guilty pleasure. But Fabulous Brew offers it, too, and I have a feeling it might really live up to the café's name.